Resilience of Oregon biodynamic winery byproduct of community

The cozy tasting room at Brooks Wines has, fittingly, become a family room of sorts for Valley grape growers and wine makers. Dan Eierdam
The cozy tasting room at Brooks Wines has, fittingly, become a family room of sorts for Valley grape growers and wine makers. Dan Eierdam

It doesn’t take many encounters with Willamette Valley winemakers to discover the real reason it was named 2016 Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine.

While the wine is world-class, it is the people who made the Willamette Valley what it is. It has been my observation that wine regions are successful in relation to their collaborative spirit. In other words, closed fists garner limited prosperity.

The Willamette Valley was built on the backs of people who demonstrated community. After all, at the end of the day, most winemakers are also farmers. Since the founding of this great country, farmers have relied on one another to bring in the crop, share equipment, impart knowledge and be a support system when their world is crumbling around them.

In addition to a very expansive single vineyard pinot noir program, Brooks is a unique education in the many styles of riesling. Viki Eierdam
In addition to a very expansive single vineyard pinot noir program, Brooks is a unique education in the many styles of riesling. Viki Eierdam

So goes the story of Jimi Brooks, a visionary winemaker whose life ended suddenly over 12 years ago. There seemed to be no one in the Valley he didn’t touch through his gregarious quest to find the passion that drives a man’s heart and, once found, to win over anyone who would listen.

With crush upon the Valley, his fellow winemakers could have attended a funeral, expressed their condolences and gone about their busy lives. Tad Steestedt, owner of Ransom Spirits and close friend of Jimi’s, pointed out that Jimi’s passing happened when so many of them were on the cusp of seeing years of hard work begin to pay off. What they did, instead, was attend to no fewer than 11 vineyards from harvest to fermentation.

Fast forward to 2017 and Brooks Wines is now sitting at a 20,000 per year case production. His sister, Janie Brooks Heuck, has remained as managing director despite residing in California and Jimi’s close friend, Chris Williams, has continued winemaking in the vein that honors his mentor daily.

Visitors of Brooks can linger over a hearty charcuterie and cheese board with a well-balanced bottle of 2014 Crannell Pinot Noir. Viki Eierdam
Visitors of Brooks can linger over a hearty charcuterie and cheese board with a well-balanced bottle of 2014 Crannell Pinot Noir. Viki Eierdam

Brooks’ cozy tasting room has become a family room of sorts for Valley grape growers and wine makers. On a recent visit I noted Richard Crannell of Crannell Vineyard sitting at the bar, and folks from Willamette Valley Vineyards, Van Duzer Vineyards and a local tour company occupying chairs and leather couches.

I could go on about the racy acidity level that Williams so elegantly captures and the romancing floral aromas that are elevated due to the influence of the Van Duzer corridor but it is the firm foundation that Brooks stands on that is the true story.

Time spent in the Beaujolais region of France introduced Jimi to biodynamic farming and connected the dots of his search for that which made sense to him. He returned to the States with a respect for Alsatian riesling and a drive to save old vine riesling in Oregon.

Brooks’ expansive single vineyard pinot noir and riesling program makes for an educational media tasting as well as a great excuse to linger in their cozy tasting room. Viki Eierdam
Brooks’ expansive single vineyard pinot noir and riesling program makes for an educational media tasting as well as a great excuse to linger in their cozy tasting room. Viki Eierdam

Grapes are sourced from plantings that date as far back as 1974 and it’s a unique education to taste through so many styles in one location. From the more traditional seafood pairings to slightly out of the box thinking like Mexican, Middle Eastern and Cajun dishes, riesling is arguably the most food-friendly and diverse grape on the market.

As for places like Chehalem Wines, Bull Run Distilling and Ransom Spirits, it’s hard to ignore the success that they have enjoyed since that fateful September day in 2004 when a selfless decision to carry on one man’s legacy was made. Coincidence? I think not.

 

From launch pad to crush pad: Vidon Vineyard wines take flight

On their 12 ½ acre site, Vidon Vineyard grows predominantly pinot noir—— Brigita Clone 777, Mirabelle Clone 115 and Hans Clone Pommard. Dan Eierdam.
On their 12 ½ acre site, Vidon Vineyard grows predominantly pinot noir—— Brigita Clone 777, Mirabelle Clone 115 and Hans Clone Pommard. Dan Eierdam.

The wine industry is filled with people making this highly stylized profession their second act. Not surprisingly, many of them are Type A personalities who crave the craftsmanship and personalization that come with the vintner designation. Alas, it is true that you can take the boy out of the country but you can’t take the country out of the boy.

Such is the case of Don Hagge, founder of Vidon Vineyard in Newberg. While the farming aspect of the wine world takes him back to his North Dakota days as a child, there’s a large part of him still firmly planted back in Houston.

Vidon Vineyard owners, Don and Vicki Hagge. Photo provided
Vidon Vineyard owners, Don and Vicki Hagge. Photo provided

A trained technology scientist, Don’s former title was Chief of the Physics Branch for the Apollo program; Apollo 13 being his last mission. Leaving NASA at the ripe age of 38, Don still had decades of tinkering ahead of him and vineyard management has proven a constant source of problem solving.

There’s dealing with cork taint—Don keeps a list of blind tasting results in his tasting room as proof of why he uses glass stoppers; frustration with industry bottling lines—so he created his own; more control with aging his wines—thus, the employment of flextanks; constantly searching for the most efficient way to minimize waste between tastings—build your own wine dispensing system that uses nitrogren, of course; and eliminating the upkeep of wine clubs—roll out one that accrues points with every purchase rather than discounts a percentage of every bottle, case, etc. The Vidollar Rewards Program may be replaced in the not-so-distant future. Don’s already working on a Wine Club 2.0 version called VinAlliance and the growth potential is impressive and collaborative.

Vidon Vineyard is one of a growing number of Willamette Valley vineyards committed to the Carbon Reduction Challenge (CRC)—a winery program that addresses and attempts to reduce greenhouse gas. Dan Eierdam.
Vidon Vineyard is one of a growing number of Willamette Valley vineyards committed to the Carbon Reduction Challenge (CRC)—a winery program that addresses and attempts to reduce greenhouse gas. Dan Eierdam.

So, is there any rest for the weary in the wine world? At the young age of 84, Don shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, he has blueprints to expand his winery since it’s been at capacity for a couple years now. His wife and partner in vine, Vicki, simply sighs the knowing sigh of a patient and faithful spouse.

He does find the greatest peace on his tractor and when he’s crafting his earthy and aromatic Chehalem Mountain AVA wines. Minimal intervention is the goal but that’s not to say he doesn’t have significant opportunity to weigh in via LIVE-certified (low input viticulture and enology) farming and being part of the Carbon Reduction Challenge (CRC)—a winery program that addresses and attempts to reduce greenhouse gas.

Vidon winemaker, Don Hagge, pictured with his granddaughters, Brigita and Mirabelle, after whom two of his estate pinot noir clones are named. Photo provided.
Vidon winemaker, Don Hagge, pictured with his granddaughters, Brigita and Mirabelle, after whom two of his estate pinot noir clones are named. Photo provided.

On his 12 ½ acre site, Don grows predominantly pinot noir and a smattering of chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot blanc, viognier, syrah and tempranillo. The 3-clones pinot noir comprises his greatest focus; Brigita Clone 777, Mirabelle Clone 115 and Hans Clone Pommard—a tribute to his three, beloved grandchildren.  Ranging from fruit-forward to complex notes of herbs, wood, leather and spice, all his pinot offerings have the weight and structure to withstand aging while being balanced enough to enjoy now.

The other varietal I had the pleasure to taste was his 2014 Chardonnay. All estate fruit, it had an approachable roundness with a hint of oak to bump up its elegance and leave a smooth, lingering finish. With the holidays approaching, this would make a lovely accompaniment to the Thanksgiving bird or Christmas brunch.

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Seufert Winery shines with single vineyard focus

Seufert’s ability to take single vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley and mold the most beautiful expressions from them is his greatest strength. Viki Eierdam
Seufert’s ability to take single vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley and mold the most beautiful expressions from them is his greatest strength. Viki Eierdam

If you didn’t see the August cover of Oregon Wine Press, check it out here. It features Tiny Vacay including Dayton’s own The Vintages; a retro trailer neighborhood within the heart of wine country.

This RV resort has even more going for it than The Vintages neighborhood. Just outside the gated perimeter is a foot bridge that takes guests to the quaint downtown center of Dayton where Seufert Winery’s contemporary tasting room is located.

Forecasters are predicting mild weather through October (we’ll see about that) so there’s still ample opportunity to take advantage of the welcoming outdoor seating at Seufert or melt into the plush, retro airplane seats while enjoying the full lineup of Willamette Valley-sourced pinot noirs.

Single vineyard pinot noir and dog friendly...need I say more? Dan Eierdam
Single vineyard pinot noir and dog friendly…need I say more? Dan Eierdam

During International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) weekend, we ventured into Seufert and enjoyed a nice chat with director of sales, Paula Foat. She shared with us that owner and winemaker, Jim Seufert, crafts his magic just beyond Courthouse Square Park in a separate facility.

He’s a fan of the New York International Wine Competition (NYIWC) and the feeling is mutual. NYIWC awarded Seufert with Oregon Pinot Noir Winery of the Year in 2015 and their 2011 Vine Idyl Pinot Noir earned a Silver. The Oregon Wine Awards has much to say about Seufert, as well. Their 2011 Vine Idyl Pinot Noir has walked away with a Bronze and the 2012 Horseleap Vineyard Pinot Noir received a Double Gold. In fact, the majority of the current releases have medaled at respected competitions such as the Great Northwest Wine Competition and Sunset Magazine International Wine Competition.

Seufert Winery's contemporary tasting room is located in quaint downtown center of Dayton. Viki Eierdam
Seufert Winery’s contemporary tasting room is located in quaint downtown center of Dayton. Viki Eierdam

Seufert’s ability to take single vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley and mold the most beautiful expressions from them is his greatest strength. Sourcing from northerly Bishop Creek and Horseleap and traveling as far south as Vine Idyl, Seufert has amassed relationships with top growers to offer Single Vineyard & Food Pairing Flights representing as many as seven pinot noir in one tasting, depending on vintage and availability. These are passionately offered by appointment only and on my list of things to do.

Whereas many vintners choose to blend from a variety of sites, Seufert’s single vineyard focus produces concentrated expressions of fruit with lush earthy notes, cracked pepper and smooth, full tannins followed up by a solid vein of acid and a lingering finish.

Viki Eierdam
Viki Eierdam

I particularly enjoyed the 2014 White Pinot Noir—just a fetching light pink number—and the 2011 Vine Idyl Pinot Noir which seems to be a crowd favorite. It lacks the intensity of the 2011 Zenith in an approachable way, making it an all-around premier example of an Oregon pinot noir.

Find the tasting room of Seufert Winery at 303 Main Street 1B, Dayton.

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Youngberg Hill magical romantic escape

20 acres under vine at Youngberg Hill is just the beginning of its bucolic setting. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill
20 acres under vine at Youngberg Hill is just the beginning of its bucolic setting. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill

Let’s play the Willamette Valley version of six degrees of separation. Youngberg Hill, the destination winery “on the hill” in McMinnville, was planted in vines by Ken Wright in 1989—mere months before I met the man who was to be my husband.

Seven years later, the first wines carrying the Youngberg Hill Vineyards label were produced. It was during the maturation of the vines that my husband and I married and spent our honeymoon in the first floor Gamay Room with its ambience-emanating gas fireplace, intoxicating views and private deck.

Back then (August 27, 1992) there was talk about how it would one day be a great vineyard producing award-winning wines but the first harvest had not yet taken place. The promise was in the “good vein going through it”, according to the late Jimi Brooks.

The Jura Suite at Youngberg Hill epitomizes a romantic retreat with expansive vineyard views. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill
The Jura Suite at Youngberg Hill epitomizes a romantic retreat with expansive vineyard views. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill

When I had the opportunity to revisit Youngberg Hill this past spring with my husband, it was exciting to see how much the property had changed. Over two decades garnered an upgrade—to the Jura Suite with expansive vineyard views that its second story perch affords. From the luxurious bed one can gaze out the windows at the stars and feel all the possibilities that such a clear, bright night sky evokes. Its exquisite setting cannot be overly punctuated.

Wayne Bailey, owner and winemaker at Youngberg Hill, was delighted to hear of our original visit and humbled to host our return. But, that’s Bailey—a completely unassuming, farmer at heart who happens to preside over one of the most magnificent pieces of land in all the Valley.

An all-weather event center was just completed at Youngberg Hill, expanded the opportunity to provide wine-focused gatherings later into the season. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill
An all-weather event center was just completed at Youngberg Hill, expanded the opportunity to provide wine-focused gatherings later into the season. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill

As the son of an Iowa farmer, his intention was always to work in harmony with his land.From the time he purchased what is now 20 acres under vine, he has farmed organically and took it to the next level in 2011 by going biodynamic. An admirer of Brooks’ holistic philosophy, he is down-to-earth (pardon the pun) about his approach, not given to the mysticism some believe biodynamic is shrouded in. It’s all about taking the land from every corner of it and using its many facets to better it rather than going outside its borders to bring in influences that might alter the site-specific terroir.

At Youngberg Hill, Bailey doesn’t mess with trying to find the next great grape to grow in the Valley. Estate pinot noir and pinot gris and Willamette Valley pinot blanc are the focus. Dan Eierdam
At Youngberg Hill, Bailey doesn’t mess with trying to find the next great grape to grow in the Valley. Estate pinot noir and pinot gris and Willamette Valley pinot blanc are the focus. Dan Eierdam

Within those parameters, Bailey doesn’t mess with trying to find the next great grape to grow in the Valley. Instead, he concentrates on consistently-proven McMinnville AVA strengths; pinot noir, pinot gris and, most recently, chardonnay. In the lineup, pinot blanc sometimes makes an appear from sourced fruit.

As a tangible reminder of Bailey’s determination to leave his land better for the next generation, the Jordan and Natasha Blocks of pinot noir and Aspen Block of pinot gris are named after his three daughters. The cooler temperatures at Youngberg Hill allow for longer hang time overall which increases fruit complexity and allows for a good level of acid to work with.

Youngberg Hill’s wrap-around second story deck, accessed from the warm and welcoming tasting room, is open to all visitors. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill
Youngberg Hill’s wrap-around second story deck, accessed from the warm and welcoming tasting room, is open to all visitors. Courtesy of Youngberg Hill

For overnight guests, Youngberg is special but its hospitality is not reserved for the Inn. The tasting room is a warm and welcoming spot to learn about the spectrum of flavor profiles crafted from the estate vineyards and the wrap-around second story deck is open to all visitors.

Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway or just want to taste through their current releases, Youngberg Hill just keeps getting better with age.

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White Rose Estate stands out in a valley of worthy contenders

Its hilltop perch affords White Rose Estate expansive Willamette Valley views. Dan Eierdam
Its hilltop perch affords White Rose Estate expansive Willamette Valley views. Dan Eierdam

If you’re a winery in the Willamette Valley it can be hard to stand out unless you have a story, a niche or, frankly, just a really cool tasting room.

White Rose Estate has all three bases covered.

Story – Aerospace industry manufacturer pursues passion for pinot and lands on a hilltop vineyard overlooking the expansive Willamette Valley. After purchasing the land with circa 1980 vines gracing it, Greg Sanders sets about building a solid reputation as a winemaker who consistently produces deep, luscious vintages poised to cellar with increasing grace and elegance. Several years later, Sanders passes the torch to long-time right-hand man turned assistant winemaker turned winemaker, Jesus Guillén who emulates Sanders’ style in action and by bottle.

A side-by-side tasting of their 2013 Luciole Vineyard Pinot Noir—one with 20 percent stem inclusion and the other with 80 percent—was a unique wine education experience. Viki Eierdam
A side-by-side tasting of their 2013 Luciole Vineyard Pinot Noir—one with 20 percent stem inclusion and the other with 80 percent—was a unique wine education experience. Viki Eierdam

Niche – Neoclassical Pinot Noir.  The basis of this winemaking style is old vines. One can plant vines and enjoy a harvest in three years but depth, character and concentration come about over time in similar fashion to cellaring a bottle. Several other components go into Neoclassical Winemaking including harvesting all grapes into canvas totes to keep the stems intact, pressing everything in-house with two manual presses to control the amount of tannin extracted and whole cluster fermentation.

Partially underground, the tasting room of White Rose produces a unique mood for visits. Viki Eierdam
Partially underground, the tasting room of White Rose produces a unique mood for visits. Viki Eierdam

Really cool tasting room – This is, hands down, my favorite part. On the approach, White Rose’s tasting room looks like a hobbit house. Walking in only confirmed my suspicion. It is, in fact, partially underground which produces a unique mood for tastings. Tasting room associates, Charlie and Margo, help with that, feeding off of one another like a sort of modern odd couple. Charlie divulges all the nuances of Greg and Jesus’s winemaking philosophy in a honed and focused manner while Margo absolutely exudes her excitement about the different vintages, the smell of the lavender and other fragrant herbs planted on property and just about anything else with an infectious demeanor.

Margo allowed us a glimpse into their underground barrel room located directly underneath the tasting room of White Rose Estate as well as one of the manual presses used during harvest. Viki Eierdam
Margo allowed us a glimpse into their underground barrel room located directly underneath the tasting room of White Rose Estate as well as one of the manual presses used during harvest. Viki Eierdam

Wine lovers looking for a true experience will not be disappointed at White Rose Estate. Bottle prices reflect their quality (ranging from $60-$95 for the five that I tried) but tastings are $15. Of particular note was a side-by-side of their 2013 Luciole Vineyard Pinot Noir; one with 20 percent stem inclusion and the other with 80 percent. The flavor profiles were quite different, as one would expect, with a greater concentration of earthy aromatics and palate descriptors in the 80 percent. It’s a rare opportunity to have this level of wine education and a reflection of the overall tasting experience at White Rose Estate.

White Rose is located within a cluster of wineries in Dayton, Oregon (Stoller, Durant and La Colina), making it a perfect addition to a day of tasting.

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Yamill Carlton winery is confirmation that struggle breeds strength

From its 575 foot vantage point in the Yamhill Carlton AVA, Lenné has its own magical view of neighboring vineyards. Dan Eierdam
From its 575 foot vantage point in the Yamhill Carlton AVA, Lenné has its own magical view of neighboring vineyards. Dan Eierdam

Years ago my husband and I entered Bologna by rental car with no GPS. After several genuine attempts to locate our accommodations and the kindness of strangers, we pulled over to call our host. When I described where we were, she proclaimed in a frantic voice softened by a melodic Italian accent, “Is impossible!” Initially, her assessment of our situation was discouraging but, ultimately, it was a challenge my husband embraced and when we drove up to her carpark 10 minutes later, she was leaning out her second story window applauding us, appearing in awe of my husband’s super powers.

Steve Lutz, proprietor and winemaker of Lenné Estate, said “With Pinot Noir, it needs to hit mid-palate or it’s a miss for me.” Dan Eierdam
Steve Lutz, proprietor and winemaker of Lenné Estate, said “With Pinot Noir, it needs to hit mid-palate or it’s a miss for me.” Dan Eierdam

Funny how, when someone says “Is impossible”, the human condition either gives up or rises to the occasion. Fortunately for pinot noir lovers seeking a site-driven flavor profile, Steve Lutz of Lenné Estate chose the latter.

After years of searching, Lutz found just the right 21 stressed acres in the Yamhill Carlton AVA that he’d been looking for. Not even for sale at the time, it was one of those ‘a friend of a friend’ exchanges that has proven to be his greatest challenge and source of pride.

Due to the depleted ancient sedimentary soil that makes up his estate vineyard, his vines yield small clusters which equate to density in flavor.

On a pleasant day in May, I enjoyed a private vineyard tour and tasting of Lenné Estate courtesy of winemaker, Steve Lutz. Dan Eierdam
On a pleasant day in May, I enjoyed a private vineyard tour and tasting of Lenné Estate courtesy of winemaker, Steve Lutz. Dan Eierdam

Under one of the three distinct labels—LeNez, Lenné and Cinq Élus—is a tribute to Lutz’s journey; his 2014 Kill Hill Pinot Noir. Made from a blend of clones found on the steep, Northeast corner of his vineyard, it is also where Lutz lost many of his juvenile vines in the first years. It now stands as a tribute to tenacity and confirmation that struggle breeds strength.

From its 575 foot vantage point in the Yamhill Carlton AVA, Lenné has its own magical view of neighboring vineyards. Dan Eierdam
From its 575 foot vantage point in the Yamhill Carlton AVA, Lenné has its own magical view of neighboring vineyards. Dan Eierdam

Tasting through his offerings on a pleasant day in May, I enjoyed the perfume and light floral notes of his 2013 LeNez Pinot Noir; his signature wine, the 2013 Lenné Pinot Noir; the fruit-forward nose of the 2014 Eleannor’s Pinot Noir (in honor of Steve’s mother); and the 2013 Lenné Cinq Élus which translates to the ‘five elected’—the best barrel from each of the five single estate clones represented. For me, the winner was the currant and savory notes of the 2013 Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir. I’m a sucker for bramble.

Lutz, himself, has experienced nearly the diversity of his soil in his working years. His wine fascination began in the Napa Valley. From Beringer to Franciscan to Inglenook to Merryvale, his resumé is an impressive list of big names for which he managed all the while honing his winemaking skills at home.

Reserved for Rootstock Club Members and special events, the rooftop patio at Lenné Estate affords a sweeping view of his vineyard. Dan Eierdam
Reserved for Rootstock Club Members and special events, the rooftop patio at Lenné Estate affords a sweeping view of his vineyard. Dan Eierdam

An ode to a gourmet pizza business that he operated for five years in California, Lutz built a Pompeii Pizza Oven back in 2008 and fires it up at exclusive Lenné wine club events.‘Throwing dough’—as wine photographer Richard Duval so aptly nicknamed it—puts him among an elite group of winemakers who enjoy the hobby including Bob Betz (Betz Family Winery), Jean-François Pellet of Pepper Bridge and Gilles Nicault of Long Shadows.

Initial success for Lutz was hard-won, taking Lenné seven years to produce the fruit set commonly realized in three. But the depth of structure validates his gut; that, like the famed wines of France, keeping the vines parched and needy results in power and concentration that translates into the glass.

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Ghost Hill Cellars captivates centuries-old miner

Seventy year-old handmade glass, a portion of the altar floor and a barn door from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey were integrated into the tasting room of Ghost Hill Cellars. Dan Eierdam
Seventy year-old handmade glass, a portion of the altar floor and a barn door from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey were integrated into the tasting room of Ghost Hill Cellars. Dan Eierdam

Everybody loves a good ghost story. What better to pair it with than wines earning high marks in Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and Vinous?

Back in May I had the pleasure of a Ghost Hill Cellars vineyard tour courtesy of Mike Bayliss.  As we rode alongside the rows of his fourth-generation farmland in his work horse of a truck, he pointed to a rather lonely-looking tree standing sentry over his 237 acres of fertile soil.

The lone tree on Ghost Hill holds a nearly two centuries old legend as it stands sentry over captivating views of vibrant clover, wheat, oats and grape vines. Dan Eierdam
The lone tree on Ghost Hill holds a nearly two centuries old legend as it stands sentry over captivating views of vibrant clover, wheat, oats and grape vines. Dan Eierdam

“The story goes,” he said, “that a main thoroughfare cut right through here in the late 1800’s. Men on horseback would ride along, up that hill and continue on their way.”

One night a miner made camp there. While he was sleeping, someone came along, killed him and his horse, stole his gold and disappeared into the night. Legend has it people see the slain miner walking around up there looking for his gold. I say he simply couldn’t be pulled away from the captivating view of vibrant clover, wheat, oats and grape vines that hill affords.

In the late 1800’s a miner was slain on Ghost Hill. Legend has it people see him walking around looking for his gold but I say he simply couldn’t be pulled away from the captivating views. Dan Eierdam
In the late 1800’s a miner was slain on Ghost Hill. Legend has it people see him walking around looking for his gold but I say he simply couldn’t be pulled away from the captivating views. Dan Eierdam

Regardless, the current tasting room that he and his wife, Drenda, pour from has its own historic appeal. Seventy year-old handmade glass was taken from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey literally up the road and the counter is a portion of the altar floor circa 1954. Mike’s affinity for the Trappist Abbey comes from years working there and, in the process, befriending Brother Carl John Benedict who passed away earlier this year.

While the Bayliss family continues to farm this slice of heaven that’s been in their family since 1906, nearly 16 acres was planted to vine in 1999. Today those grapes produce over 1,200 cases of wine that are being crafted into an expressive and versatile lineup of pinot noir.

2013 Pinot Noir Blanc – A fuller mouth feel is attributed to white wine derived from red grapes. Six months of lees stirring builds on that weight. The result is a medium acid wine ideal for rich fish like salmon, crab or lobster as well as pasta dishes with cream sauces or cream-based soups with pinot noir-loving ingredients like mushrooms and asparagus.

Back in May I had the pleasure of a Ghost Hill Cellars tasting courtesy of Mike and Drenda Bayliss. Ghost Hill Cellars
Back in May I had the pleasure of a Ghost Hill Cellars tasting courtesy of Mike and Drenda Bayliss. Ghost Hill Cellars

2014 Pinot Noir Rosé – Wine in contact with the skins for 15-18 hours results in a slightly salmon color. It’s a true patio wine with hints of strawberry and spice. Like the little black dress, the versatility of this rosé takes it from fruit, crudité and cheese platters (play on the pinot with smoked variations), to the traditional Thai and curry dishes so oft-recommended.

2011 Pinot Noir – A cooler vintage, Mike said this was initially a hard sell to wine critics but, like 2013, these are aging beautifully and it was my favorite of the tasting. It cries out for mushroom anything (soup, risotto, stroganoff) to complement the fabulous forest floor aromas. A gorgeous Willamette Valley representation, in my book.

2012 Bayliss-Bower Pinot Noir – Drawing high marks earlier this year from several respected sources, this is an elegant pinot. A blend of four clones, the warm notes from the vintage make it approachable and velvety. Notes of cherry and hints of cocoa marry nicely with a variety of meats including pork, chicken and grilled fish.

2012 Pinot Noir Prospector’s Reserve – Selected from the oldest plantings of the vineyard, this is a weightier version of the previous pinot. More new French oak adds to its complexity. Up the culinary anty with pinot noir-infused sauces, sprinkling truffle shavings over meats, preparing salmon alder-smoked and highlighting in-season fruits like grilled peaches alongside pork loin.

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The Allure of Alloro

A cypress-lined drive that gives way to a terra cotta-adorned winery and tasting room are just a few authentic flairs awaiting visitors of Alloro Vineyard. Dan Eierdam
A cypress-lined drive that gives way to a terra cotta-adorned winery and tasting room are just a few authentic flairs awaiting visitors of Alloro Vineyard. Dan Eierdam

Rows of cypress, aromatic herbs, olive trees, a terra cotta-adorned villa and spicy wines evoke la dolce vita—the good life found in the Mediterranean climate of Italy. Thanks to the Italian heritage of one vineyard manager, this scene can also be enjoyed in the heart of the Willamette Valley.

Located in the Chehalem AVA, Alloro Vineyard is an 80 acre dream-come-true for owner, David Nemarnik. With 33 acres under vine, he and winemaker, Tom Fitzpatrick, concentrate on an all estate-grown production.

Alloro Vineyard brings la dolce vita to the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam
Alloro Vineyard brings la dolce vita to the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam

Concentrating on expressive varietals since the first vintage in 2002, Alloro releases three site pinot noirs each year. The bulk of their focus is on their Estate bottling—a terroir-driven wine that, Fitzpatrick explained, best captures the personality and purity of the vineyard. The Riservata delivers a mouth-feel with a little more weight within the context of the vintage and increases the use of new oak. Named after David’s daughter, Justina uses the most new oak of the three selections. It’s a showier version of a wine in its youth with a persistence on the palate that becomes increasingly terroir-driven as it ages.

Extracting all the benefits of their well-draining, loess-derived soil has not gone unnoticed in the world of wine critics. Most recently 2011 and 2012 Alloro pinot noirs earned rave reviews from both Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator.  For the white wine lover, their 2014 Chardonnay garnered 91 points from Decanter Magazine. Bright acidity and stone fruit notes make this an immediately approachable Oregon chardonnay. Lingering spice on the finish graduates it to a food-friendly offering.

On a recent visit Nemarnik (shown center) and Fitzpatrick (on the right) explained that at the forefront of all their farming and harvesting decisions is their reverence for the land. Dan Eierdam
On a recent visit Nemarnik (shown center) and Fitzpatrick (on the right) explained that at the forefront of all their farming and harvesting decisions is their reverence for the land. Dan Eierdam

At the forefront of all farming and harvesting decisions is Nemarnik and Fitzpatrick’s reverence for the land. LIVE-certified, Alloro’s goal is sustainability and, while they are not biodynamic, they strive for a predominantly organic vineyard. Their holistic approach is demonstrated beautifully at their annual Whole Farm Dinner, held each September.

With the fall dinner in mind, Nemarnik meticulously plans his estate garden early each year and a lamb is raised on site for the meal, as well. He shared that over 90 percent of the ingredients supplied for the Whole Farm Dinner are sourced from the grounds of Alloro. The windblown sedimentary soil that produces darker fruits with more masculine, Italian spice notes creates the ideal pinot noirs to pair with this much-anticipated harvest menu.

Thanks to the Italian heritage of one vineyard manager, a slice of the good life found in the Mediterranean climate of Italy can also be enjoyed in the heart of the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam
Thanks to the Italian heritage of one vineyard manager, a slice of the good life found in the Mediterranean climate of Italy can also be enjoyed in the heart of the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam

A traditional underground cellar stores the wines much like Nemarnik recalls from his numerous trips to visit family in his youth. Such was his commitment to create a truly authentic experience that he hired architect, Laurence Ferar, to execute his vision. Ferar has made a name for himself in the winery world with a client list that includes Adelsheim, Alexana, Lemelson, Leonetti, Illahe, Raptor Ridge and Van Duzer, to name a few. It is a special space that exudes ambience fitting for an intimate winemaker’s dinner.

The seed for Alloro was planted in Nemarnik at a young age and, after following the second career of his great-grandfather—a produce distributor— he circled back around to farming and found his nitch in the wine world. His fortuitous partnership with Fitzpatrick, who brought with him extensive Burgundian winemaking experience, is further proof that Alloro’s allure is as powerful and captivating as its wines.

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¡Salud! serves up pinot with a purpose for Silver anniversary

At a recent press event held at Ponzi Vineyards, winemakers shared the importance of ¡Salud! for Willamette Valley vineyard workers. Viki Eierdam
At a recent press event held at Ponzi Vineyards, winemakers shared the importance of ¡Salud! for Willamette Valley vineyard workers. Viki Eierdam

2016 marks the 25th anniversary of ¡Salud! and you can be sure the cuvées will be better than ever!

A wildly successful program that provides healthcare for Willamette Valley vineyard workers, ¡Salud! earned this recognition by partnering with Tuality Healthcare, premier Oregon pinot noir winemakers and lovers of Oregon pinot from all walks of life.

Maria Ponzi said "...The least we can do is provide health care for our vineyard workers.” Viki Eierdam
Maria Ponzi said “…The least we can do is provide health care for our vineyard workers.” Viki Eierdam

Since its inception in 1991, ¡Salud! has raised over $11.6 million. According to Leda Garside, RN and services manager, approximately 4,000 people were serviced through Tuality Healthcare in 2015 thanks to the funds provided by ¡Salud! events put on throughout the year. Of that number, 30 percent are children of vineyard workers and 12 percent are spouses. Garside stressed that “it’s all about families” when targeting preventative medical care.

From a mobile medical unit, cholesterol, blood sugar, blood pressure, vaccinations and a variety of other testing can be conducted as well as eye screening (crucial for the amount of time vineyard workers spend in the sun) and limited dental care. Referrals to community providers are handled on a case by case basis.

According to Leda Garside, RN and services manager, approximately 4,000 people were serviced through Tuality Healthcare in 2015 thanks to the funds provided by ¡Salud! events. Viki Eierdam
Leda Garside, RN and services manager, shares how vineyard workers are helped by Tuality Healthcare through funds provided by ¡Salud! events. Viki Eierdam

At a recent press event held at Ponzi Vineyards, Maria Ponzi said “The Oregon wine community has really been raised on sustainable farming and we’ve extended that idea by caring for our own. We rely on this industry. This program (¡Salud!) is so essential and becomes more so as we move forward.”

She went on to say “They’re expecting over one million people to come through the Valley this year. The least we can do is provide health care for our vineyard workers.”

This year marks the fourth annual Summertime ¡Salud!, held on Thursday, July 28. The day begins with a wine tasting reception, gourmet hors d’oeuvres and an al fresco dinner at Stoller Family Estate. Wineries from Oregon, France and Australia will be pouring 13 spectacular wines and this is your chance to reserve ¡Salud! Cuvées before the premier November event.

From a mobile medical unit, a variety of preventative care tests and procedures can be conducted. Viki Eierdam
From a mobile medical unit, a variety of preventative care tests and procedures can be conducted. Viki Eierdam

The Annual Big Board Auction and Gala is a two-part event beginning Friday afternoon, November 11 at Ponzi Vineyards where guests enjoy heavy appetizers, taste over 40 ¡Salud! Cuvées and bid on lots of five cases of pinot noir crafted exclusively for ¡Salud!

“They’re very unique cuvées you can’t get anywhere else and you can only get them one night,” Ponzi said.

The party continues on Saturday night, November 12 at Portland’s historic Sentinel Hotel. A more upscale event, the evening begins with a sparkling reception followed by a silent auction, multi-course dinner, live auction with a frenzy of paddles and live music and dancing at the after-party. To emphasize its Silver Anniversary, ¡Salud! has invited the founding wineries and Tuality Health Care workers to partake in the festivities.

 

For more information or to purchase ¡Salud! event tickets, go to http://www.saludauction.org/.

Food truck phenomenon returns to WillaKenzie

Food Truck Weekends returns to WillaKenzie Estate. WillaKenzie Estate
Food Truck Weekends returns to WillaKenzie Estate. WillaKenzie Estate

For the second year in a row, WillaKenzie Estate is inviting an array of local food trucks to showcase their cuisine alongside award-winning Willamette Valley wines. Beginning Memorial Weekend, visitors will  be able to enjoy culinary delights from places like Tamale Boy, 3  Guys Grilling, Big Tony Brown and the winner of Best in Show at the Portland Food Cart Festival—Phat Cart.

Portland’s food cart phenomenon has become so popular that some trucks have a following similar to that of a five-star dining establishment on a Saturday night. So the idea to pair pinot gris with tamales (an eclectic favorite example of WillaKenzie Estate’s Brand Ambassador Claudia Bowers) is a perfect opportunity to marry the unhurried feel of their scenic setting with top notch food options.

Photo courtesy of WillaKenzie Estate
Photo courtesy of WillaKenzie Estate

Food Truck Weekends was a popular event last year and, even as WillaKenzie rolls out their second season, other wineries are inviting carts of every cuisine imaginable to serve up in their little slices of heaven. Barbeque, Thai, Mexican—you’re craving it, wineries are bringing it.

With cooked-to-order food available on site, guests can linger longer at WillaKenzie pairing vineyard views and Burgundian pinot noirs with wood-fired pizza, smoked delicacies by Ember & Vine and Venezuelan comfort food like chicken, beef or vegetarian patacones.

Tamales and pinot gris are aneclectic favorite example of WillaKenzie Estate’s Brand Ambassador Claudia Bowers. WillaKenzie Estate
Tamales and pinot gris are an eclectic favorite example of WillaKenzie Estate’s Brand Ambassador Claudia Bowers. WillaKenzie Estate

Memorial Weekend promises to deliver an exciting open house, accompanied by blues band Soul Expression, three food carts and sweets from The Chocolate Maker’s Studio.

Food Truck Weekend continues every weekend through October 2016. For more information, go to www.willakenzie.com.

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