Umpqua upset at Australia’s Six Nations Wine Challenge

Stephen Reustle, owner and winemaker at Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards, and his wife, Gloria, held their first media luncheon ever at The Bent Brick in NW Portland recently to celebrate their Six Nations Wine Challenge win with their 2012 Syrah Masada Bloc. Viki Eierdam

After October’s Six Nations Wine Challenge upset, I’m already imagining Steve Carell cast as Stephen M. Reustle and Charlotte Ayanna as his beautiful wife, Gloria, in an upcoming wine flick entitled A Heavenly Vintage detailing their road to winning Best Syrah of the New World much like Bill Pullman as Jim Barrett in the fabulously entertaining 2008 Bottle Shock.

Up against stiff competition from the rest of the United States, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and Australia—where the epic event was held and the country that enjoys a world-renowned reputation for their Shiraz—Roseburg, Oregon’s own Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards won top honors with their 2012 Syrah Masada Bloc.

Up against stiff competition from six New World countries—including Australia which enjoys a world-renowned reputation for their Shiraz—Roseburg, Oregon’s own Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards won top honors with their 2012 Syrah Masada Bloc. Reustle – Prayer Rock

The impact of these recent events is predicted to bring the same flurry of interest to the Umpqua Valley as the historic 1976 blind Paris winetasting did to Napa Valley when Château Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay won the white wine section of this game-changing competition.

Already known as the first winery in the U.S. to produce grüner veltliner, Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards is no stranger to recognition in the wine world. This 8,000 case per year winery has racked up over 400 medals in the seven years it’s been entering competitions. Stephen’s all estate-grown grapes are a representation of 14 varietals planted on 40 acres of hillside.

The Bent Brick’s syrah-inspired rice pudding dessert with a chili-infused sauce took on apple pie characteristics with a vintage of Reustle’s decadent Riesling. Viki Eierdam

To celebrate what Stephen referred to as “an absolute highlight in my life,” he and his wife, Gloria, held their first media luncheon ever at The Bent Brick in NW Portland recently. Owner and chef, Scott Dolich, paired Reustle’s syrahs with beautifully fresh, tried and true ingredients that bring out the smoky characteristics of this varietal like earthy chanterelle mushrooms and peppery Belgian endive in the salad, chanterelles garnishing the tender hanger steak and semolina fried onions and even a smoked butter to spread atop Ken’s bread between bites. Interestingly, I noticed the bread was not as popular as it normally is because Reustle’s syrahs are not the high alcohol bombs of old. He intentionally keeps them at a food-friendly, under 14 percent range rather than the 16.5 percent 2013 Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz in one of our flights that made my eyes start watering before I even took a sip.

Stephen’s beautiful wife, Gloria, smiles as he describes Gloria’s Syrah, ‘masterfully both simple and complex, she captivates you with her vibrant color, seductive aroma, and exotic body,’ “and I’m talking about the wine,” he clarified. Viki Eierdam

There’s an elegance and complexity in Reustle – Prayer Rock’s wines that evolves as each glass is allowed to open up. The front of the palate is greeted with intense black fruit and as the wine makes its way from mid-palate to the back the pepper, licorice and baking spice characteristics introduce themselves and intensify with the warming of the wine to body temperature.

A special treat of the luncheon was the opportunity to taste their first U.S.-produced 2005 Grüner Veltliner which is a big white wine grown widely in Austria that has the acidity to stand up to long cellar aging. After 10 years, it presented luscious and full-bodied.

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards is open for tastings from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. The sit-down wine tasting and appetizer pairing in their stunningly-created wine cave is a highlight of any visit.

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An exquisite wine cave in the heart of the Umpqua Valley

Our well-appointed, private tasting room in the cave of Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards in the Umpqua Valley

Sometimes a unique vineyard feature can make the stop seem almost touristy. That is not the case with Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards’ well-appointed wine cave located in the Umpqua Valley.

The entrance to the cave at Reustle Prayer Rock with a peek-a-boo look at the first of several passages from the Book of Romans

At the entrance to the expansive cave, imprinted on the stone floor, is the first of several scriptures from the book of Romans, a bold testament to the strong faith of the Reustle family. From there our tour guide, Kevin, shared the detail of the archangels, Michael and Gabriel, drawn on either end of the cave, the impressive molded columns, several private tasting rooms as well as the captivating event space inside the cave, elegant lighting and replica of Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam.

This personalized and educational experience is included for each visitor to Reustle Prayer capped off by a four-wine tasting paired with palate-appropriate appetizers in a private to semi-private tasting room. Reustle Prayer is particularly recognized for their Grüner Veltliner, a white wine grape grown extensively in Austria. Also on their current tasting menu are their 2013 Pinot Gris (the flavors of which were set off nicely by a goat cheese-topped rice cracker), 2012 Tempranillo and 2011 Syrah.

Tidy little Semillon vines at Reustle Prayer Rock in Roseburg, Oregon

Of the four, I preferred the 2013 Grüner Veltliner for its spice and white pepper which paired perfectly with the pecorino drizzled with honey and a dash of pepper as well as the Tempranillo for its jammy, black pepper flavor profile. For someone who doesn’t care for spicy food, it’s curious that I love a little spice in my wine. Kevin shared that their wine is not released until it’s ready to be consumed but it’s evident that the smoke of this Tempranillo will only continue to evolve into a rich tobacco and leather in the next few years making it a beautiful red meat wine.

A replica of Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam in the exquisite event space inside the wine cave of Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

We discussed their Sauvignon Blanc which Kevin said is being made by Reustle Prayer in the New Zealand style and he agreed with my impression that the Marlborough region really is the premier area to showcase the complexity of this varietal. Sadly, they did not have any available to pour but a bottle of their Semillon had been opened and it was a lovely substitution. Another grape that does particularly well down under – Australia particularly – it was bright in the glass with a light floral nose and crisp, citrus flavors already leaning toward a bit of nut. A refreshing and palate-pleasing wine with a long finish.

More vines at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards on a glorious fall day

A wine lover can be overwhelmed with wine club choices. I looked hard at each of Reustle Prayer’s three options and was told that many people choose to have their shipments held back and pick them up in person a couple times a year. What a terrific way to insure another peaceful and enlightening visit in the near future.

 

The birthplace of Pinot Noir in Oregon may not be where you think

Hillcrest Vineyards in Roseburg OR -the land of Umpqua-was recently invited to pour at the oldest recognized winery in the world

The Willamette Valley is such a lauded wine region in Oregon that it can sometimes be difficult to look past it to other stellar areas like the Umpqua Valley in Southern Oregon. In the land of Umpqua there’s a lot going on that’s not been lost on people as far away as the other side of the big pond.

Take Hillcrest Vineyard in Roseburg, for example, which is credited as the first to plant Pinot Noir (in 1961 by founder, Richard Sommer) in Oregon and home to the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines dating back to 1964. Owner and winemaker, Dyson DeMara, has adopted enough innovation to garner him the only North American invitation to a 900-year old celebration in Vienna Austria.

The warm and inviting tasting room at Hillcrest Winery in the Umpqua Valley

He was also the first to ferment in steel tanks and embrace the old way of fermenting in concrete. Some in the U.S. consider this a new-fangled idea but, in fact, it’s been around in Europe for ages. According to DeMara’s wife, Susan, concrete softens the tannins of bold reds, among other attributes.

Days in Southern Oregon are some of the warmest in the state but evening temperatures still dip low enough to grow Pinot Noir and Hillcrest’s approach delivers a deeper, bolder Pinot than what would be found in the Willamette Valley while still retaining the elegance that the varietal is known for. The fact that Hillcrest dry farms is another indicator of their commitment to mimic old-style wine making to the best of their ability.

The approach to Hillcrest Vineyards, an internationally-recognized vineyard in the Umpqua Valley

We’ve heard the concept before. Grapes that struggle in the earth bring forth a bouquet unlike anything a pampered fruit would ever be able to produce. It’s strong and elegant, bold without being harsh, and sweet without being cloying in the case of Rieslings and port-style wines.

DeMara is not just experimenting in Southern Oregon. He is a knowledged wine-maker in four countries; North America, France, Germany and Spain. An hour spent in Hillcrest’s tasting room with his educated wife, Susan, is an hour well-spent not only for the premium wines but the historical and practical wisdom that she imparts to inquisitive guests. Just to hear her describe the day they received the invitation via snail mail to pour at the 900^th birthday party for Stift Klosterneuburg Winery outside of Vienna is enough to make any oenophile’s head spin. OMG, the only winery in North America-and South America for that matter-that is HUGE!

Hillcrest Vineyard’s wines are not sold in stores. The only way to get in on the secret of their world-renowned passion and 30+ years of wine-making is to travel to Southern Oregon and taste for yourself.