Ghost Hill Cellars captivates centuries-old miner

Seventy year-old handmade glass, a portion of the altar floor and a barn door from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey were integrated into the tasting room of Ghost Hill Cellars. Dan Eierdam

Everybody loves a good ghost story. What better to pair it with than wines earning high marks in Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and Vinous?

Back in May I had the pleasure of a Ghost Hill Cellars vineyard tour courtesy of Mike Bayliss.  As we rode alongside the rows of his fourth-generation farmland in his work horse of a truck, he pointed to a rather lonely-looking tree standing sentry over his 237 acres of fertile soil.

The lone tree on Ghost Hill holds a nearly two centuries old legend as it stands sentry over captivating views of vibrant clover, wheat, oats and grape vines. Dan Eierdam

“The story goes,” he said, “that a main thoroughfare cut right through here in the late 1800’s. Men on horseback would ride along, up that hill and continue on their way.”

One night a miner made camp there. While he was sleeping, someone came along, killed him and his horse, stole his gold and disappeared into the night. Legend has it people see the slain miner walking around up there looking for his gold. I say he simply couldn’t be pulled away from the captivating view of vibrant clover, wheat, oats and grape vines that hill affords.

In the late 1800’s a miner was slain on Ghost Hill. Legend has it people see him walking around looking for his gold but I say he simply couldn’t be pulled away from the captivating views. Dan Eierdam

Regardless, the current tasting room that he and his wife, Drenda, pour from has its own historic appeal. Seventy year-old handmade glass was taken from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey literally up the road and the counter is a portion of the altar floor circa 1954. Mike’s affinity for the Trappist Abbey comes from years working there and, in the process, befriending Brother Carl John Benedict who passed away earlier this year.

While the Bayliss family continues to farm this slice of heaven that’s been in their family since 1906, nearly 16 acres was planted to vine in 1999. Today those grapes produce over 1,200 cases of wine that are being crafted into an expressive and versatile lineup of pinot noir.

2013 Pinot Noir Blanc – A fuller mouth feel is attributed to white wine derived from red grapes. Six months of lees stirring builds on that weight. The result is a medium acid wine ideal for rich fish like salmon, crab or lobster as well as pasta dishes with cream sauces or cream-based soups with pinot noir-loving ingredients like mushrooms and asparagus.

Back in May I had the pleasure of a Ghost Hill Cellars tasting courtesy of Mike and Drenda Bayliss. Ghost Hill Cellars

2014 Pinot Noir Rosé – Wine in contact with the skins for 15-18 hours results in a slightly salmon color. It’s a true patio wine with hints of strawberry and spice. Like the little black dress, the versatility of this rosé takes it from fruit, crudité and cheese platters (play on the pinot with smoked variations), to the traditional Thai and curry dishes so oft-recommended.

2011 Pinot Noir – A cooler vintage, Mike said this was initially a hard sell to wine critics but, like 2013, these are aging beautifully and it was my favorite of the tasting. It cries out for mushroom anything (soup, risotto, stroganoff) to complement the fabulous forest floor aromas. A gorgeous Willamette Valley representation, in my book.

2012 Bayliss-Bower Pinot Noir – Drawing high marks earlier this year from several respected sources, this is an elegant pinot. A blend of four clones, the warm notes from the vintage make it approachable and velvety. Notes of cherry and hints of cocoa marry nicely with a variety of meats including pork, chicken and grilled fish.

2012 Pinot Noir Prospector’s Reserve – Selected from the oldest plantings of the vineyard, this is a weightier version of the previous pinot. More new French oak adds to its complexity. Up the culinary anty with pinot noir-infused sauces, sprinkling truffle shavings over meats, preparing salmon alder-smoked and highlighting in-season fruits like grilled peaches alongside pork loin.

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Adelsheim’s 2014 Breaking Ground worth the wait

Adelsheim’s newest release, 2014 Breaking Ground, is a culmination of their 45 year commitment to Valley pinot and a celebration of the success that commitment has helped create. Viki Eierdam

My love affair with pinot noir is relatively new. I admit that up until a few years ago I really believed a red wine should smack you upside the head with bold tannins and racy acidity. I thought pinot was a little lacking, a bit of a let-down after chewy cabernet sauvignons and full-bodied merlots. Hey, a girl can be wrong and graciously admit it.

Today pinot noir whispers in my ear and romances me much as it’s captivated hundreds of thousands of other wine lovers. You can actually find one that smacks you upside the head though it’s rare and, if done wrong, not a good thing. Pinot noir is delicate, feminine, perfumy, earthy and typically displays beautiful red fruit characteristics.

It is the earthy pinots that I am most drawn to. Sure, they still give aromas of strawberry but the forest floor funk sets me into a tailspin with the first whiff. I love that! Mushroom, wet leaves and dirt mixed with a hint of smoke and a waft of violets—instinctively I want mushroom risotto, or roasted beets sprinkled with warm goat cheese. Of course pork and lamb are traditional pairings but the Northwest girl in me opts for salmon, salmon and more salmon, please and thank you.

After a lingering taste of this 2014 Breaking Ground, I instinctively wanted mushroom risotto or roasted beets sprinkled with warm goat cheese. Viki Eierdam

Synonymous with Willamette Valley pinot noir is Adelsheim Vineyard—David Adelsheim, co-founder and president, began planting pinot in 1972. Their newest release, 2014 Breaking Ground, is a culmination of their 45 year commitment to Valley pinot and a celebration of the success that commitment has helped create.

With grapes sourced from the Chehalem Mountains, this pinot noir is elegant, lingering and worth the wait. It is, in fact, the first new wine for Adelsheim since 2005. An approachable wine with soft tannins, the luscious and velvety mouth-feel give way to hints of cocoa on the finish and the balanced acidity is a tell-tale sign of the ageability of the 2014 Breaking Ground.

At $45 per bottle, this Adelsheim 2014 Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir may be a special occasion wine for some or a Wednesday night wine down for others. Whatever the reason, its restrained elegance is a beautiful thing.  

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The Allure of Alloro

A cypress-lined drive that gives way to a terra cotta-adorned winery and tasting room are just a few authentic flairs awaiting visitors of Alloro Vineyard. Dan Eierdam

Rows of cypress, aromatic herbs, olive trees, a terra cotta-adorned villa and spicy wines evoke la dolce vita—the good life found in the Mediterranean climate of Italy. Thanks to the Italian heritage of one vineyard manager, this scene can also be enjoyed in the heart of the Willamette Valley.

Located in the Chehalem AVA, Alloro Vineyard is an 80 acre dream-come-true for owner, David Nemarnik. With 33 acres under vine, he and winemaker, Tom Fitzpatrick, concentrate on an all estate-grown production.

Alloro Vineyard brings la dolce vita to the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam

Concentrating on expressive varietals since the first vintage in 2002, Alloro releases three site pinot noirs each year. The bulk of their focus is on their Estate bottling—a terroir-driven wine that, Fitzpatrick explained, best captures the personality and purity of the vineyard. The Riservata delivers a mouth-feel with a little more weight within the context of the vintage and increases the use of new oak. Named after David’s daughter, Justina uses the most new oak of the three selections. It’s a showier version of a wine in its youth with a persistence on the palate that becomes increasingly terroir-driven as it ages.

Extracting all the benefits of their well-draining, loess-derived soil has not gone unnoticed in the world of wine critics. Most recently 2011 and 2012 Alloro pinot noirs earned rave reviews from both Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator.  For the white wine lover, their 2014 Chardonnay garnered 91 points from Decanter Magazine. Bright acidity and stone fruit notes make this an immediately approachable Oregon chardonnay. Lingering spice on the finish graduates it to a food-friendly offering.

On a recent visit Nemarnik (shown center) and Fitzpatrick (on the right) explained that at the forefront of all their farming and harvesting decisions is their reverence for the land. Dan Eierdam

At the forefront of all farming and harvesting decisions is Nemarnik and Fitzpatrick’s reverence for the land. LIVE-certified, Alloro’s goal is sustainability and, while they are not biodynamic, they strive for a predominantly organic vineyard. Their holistic approach is demonstrated beautifully at their annual Whole Farm Dinner, held each September.

With the fall dinner in mind, Nemarnik meticulously plans his estate garden early each year and a lamb is raised on site for the meal, as well. He shared that over 90 percent of the ingredients supplied for the Whole Farm Dinner are sourced from the grounds of Alloro. The windblown sedimentary soil that produces darker fruits with more masculine, Italian spice notes creates the ideal pinot noirs to pair with this much-anticipated harvest menu.

Thanks to the Italian heritage of one vineyard manager, a slice of the good life found in the Mediterranean climate of Italy can also be enjoyed in the heart of the Willamette Valley. Dan Eierdam

A traditional underground cellar stores the wines much like Nemarnik recalls from his numerous trips to visit family in his youth. Such was his commitment to create a truly authentic experience that he hired architect, Laurence Ferar, to execute his vision. Ferar has made a name for himself in the winery world with a client list that includes Adelsheim, Alexana, Lemelson, Leonetti, Illahe, Raptor Ridge and Van Duzer, to name a few. It is a special space that exudes ambience fitting for an intimate winemaker’s dinner.

The seed for Alloro was planted in Nemarnik at a young age and, after following the second career of his great-grandfather—a produce distributor— he circled back around to farming and found his nitch in the wine world. His fortuitous partnership with Fitzpatrick, who brought with him extensive Burgundian winemaking experience, is further proof that Alloro’s allure is as powerful and captivating as its wines.

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¡Salud! serves up pinot with a purpose for Silver anniversary

At a recent press event held at Ponzi Vineyards, winemakers shared the importance of ¡Salud! for Willamette Valley vineyard workers. Viki Eierdam

2016 marks the 25^th anniversary of ¡Salud! and you can be sure the cuvées will be better than ever!

A wildly successful program that provides healthcare for Willamette Valley vineyard workers, ¡Salud! earned this recognition by partnering with Tuality Healthcare, premier Oregon pinot noir winemakers and lovers of Oregon pinot from all walks of life.

Maria Ponzi said “…The least we can do is provide health care for our vineyard workers.” Viki Eierdam

Since its inception in 1991, ¡Salud! has raised over $11.6 million. According to Leda Garside, RN and services manager, approximately 4,000 people were serviced through Tuality Healthcare in 2015 thanks to the funds provided by ¡Salud! events put on throughout the year. Of that number, 30 percent are children of vineyard workers and 12 percent are spouses. Garside stressed that “it’s all about families” when targeting preventative medical care.

From a mobile medical unit, cholesterol, blood sugar, blood pressure, vaccinations and a variety of other testing can be conducted as well as eye screening (crucial for the amount of time vineyard workers spend in the sun) and limited dental care. Referrals to community providers are handled on a case by case basis.

Leda Garside, RN and services manager, shares how vineyard workers are helped by Tuality Healthcare through funds provided by ¡Salud! events. Viki Eierdam

At a recent press event held at Ponzi Vineyards, Maria Ponzi said “The Oregon wine community has really been raised on sustainable farming and we’ve extended that idea by caring for our own. We rely on this industry. This program (¡Salud!) is so essential and becomes more so as we move forward.”

She went on to say “They’re expecting over one million people to come through the Valley this year. The least we can do is provide health care for our vineyard workers.”

This year marks the fourth annual Summertime ¡Salud!, held on Thursday, July 28. The day begins with a wine tasting reception, gourmet hors d’oeuvres and an al fresco dinner at Stoller Family Estate. Wineries from Oregon, France and Australia will be pouring 13 spectacular wines and this is your chance to reserve ¡Salud! Cuvées before the premier November event.

From a mobile medical unit, a variety of preventative care tests and procedures can be conducted. Viki Eierdam

The Annual Big Board Auction and Gala is a two-part event beginning Friday afternoon, November 11 at Ponzi Vineyards where guests enjoy heavy appetizers, taste over 40 ¡Salud! Cuvées and bid on lots of five cases of pinot noir crafted exclusively for ¡Salud!

“They’re very unique cuvées you can’t get anywhere else and you can only get them one night,” Ponzi said.

The party continues on Saturday night, November 12 at Portland’s historic Sentinel Hotel. A more upscale event, the evening begins with a sparkling reception followed by a silent auction, multi-course dinner, live auction with a frenzy of paddles and live music and dancing at the after-party. To emphasize its Silver Anniversary, ¡Salud! has invited the founding wineries and Tuality Health Care workers to partake in the festivities.

 

For more information or to purchase ¡Salud! event tickets, go to http://www.saludauction.org/.

Seattle’s “first neighborhood” welcomes The Estates Wine Room

The Estates Wine Room opened in Seattle’s Pioneer Square on Friday, December 11th. Viki Eierdam

Known as the oldest neighborhood in Seattle—with some of its grand brick buildings dating as far back as 1852—the foot traffic around Pioneer Square that had waned over the years is returning thanks to the determined efforts of business owners and long-time residents.

Today postage stamp condos fetch nearly $400k, the area is home to a First Thursday Art Walk and it’s dotted with bars, restaurants and boutique shopping. All that was missing was an upscale wine lounge…until The Estates Wine Room opened on Friday, December 11^th.

A collaborative effort between Washington’s Double Canyon and Oregon’s Archery Summit, this contemporary spot balances a sleek stand-up tasting bar, matching table seating and industrial lighting with exposed beams and original brick walls. Viki Eierdam

A collaborative effort between Washington’s Double Canyon and Oregon’s Archery Summit, this contemporary spot balances a sleek stand-up tasting bar, matching table seating and industrial lighting with exposed beams and original brick walls. A focal point of the 1,800 square-foot space is a large-scale vertical photography rendering of vineyards from both Archery Summit and Double Canyon.

According to director of consumer sales, Russell Sheldrake, The Estates Wine Room is currently the sole establishment in the U.S. pouring A. Bergère Champagne. Viki Eierdam

At last weeks’ exclusive media preview guests enjoyed a welcome glass of A. Bergère Champagne. The lightly floral nose and clean, minerally palate made for a perfect aperitif and Russell Sheldrake, director of consumer sales, advised us that The Estates is currently the sole establishment in the U.S. pouring A. Bergère.

I had the pleasure of sharing a table with Archery Summit’s winemaker, Chris Mazepink, and between his enthusiasm for his trade and the probing questions of Sip Northwest’s editor-in-chief, Erin James, came away with a distinct impression of his infectious love affair with Oregon pinot noir.

Archery Summit’s winemaker, Chris Mazepink, shared his infectious love affair with Oregon pinot noir at last weeks’ media preview of The Estates Wine Room. Viki Eierdam

Vineyard manager, Will Beightol, also explained the philosophy that goes into every bottle of Double Canyon—a label that produced 4,500 cases in 2013 and continues to grow.

The concept of The Estates is a marriage of bold Eastern Washington cabernet sauvignons and elegant Willamette Valley pinot noirs via two separate flights—the Estate or Signature—as well as wines by the glass or bottle and a selection of the above-mentioned A. Bergère Champagnes.

With an emphasis on wine education, The Estates is not a full-blown restaurant but is offering a rotating selection of cheese and meat-based small plates thoughtfully chosen to complement the flavor profiles of the wines.

While I found all the wines to be on-point representations of their vintage and varietal, I was especially delighted with Archery Summit’s 2013 Arcus Estate Pinot Noir. The depth of black fruit showed the heat of the year while the savory aroma and tannin structure was akin to a Burgundian style pinot.

Vineyard manager, Will Beightol, explained the philosophy that goes into every bottle of Double Canyon at last weeks’ media preview of The Estates Wine Room. Viki Eierdam

The Estates Wine Room is a tasteful addition to Pioneer Square; bringing the world-renowned reputation of Willamette Valley pinot noir and Eastern Washington cabernet sauvignon to the doorstep of the Seattle metropolitan area by confidently investing in the city’s “first neighborhood.”

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McMinnville urban winery a true power house

The tasting room of Elizabeth Chambers Cellar, located in downtown McMinnville, is decked out for the holidays. Viki Eierdam

In the same vein that the Walla Walla Gas Plant —originally built to produce coal gas— was resurrected as the 342-seat Gesa Power House Theatre, McMinnville’s downtown diesel power plant has undergone a series of rebirths and the most recent one has truly brought its full potential to fruition.

Opening in December 2013 as Elizabeth Chambers Cellar, much elbow grease was required to transform the nearly 90 year-old structure into the mix of warm and industrial that invites visitors to enjoy an elegant and earthy lineup of pinot noirs sourced from several vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley.

The refurbished, nearly 90 year-old diesel power plant lends the perfect backdrop for urban winery, Elizabeth Chambers Cellar. Viki Eierdam

Its towering brick walls were sandblasted to remove layers of paint; windows encased in black paint were replaced to allow light to flood the space that had most recently been used by another winery for barrel storage; and double doors were added along one wall, exposing a secret garden of sorts that now beckons guests outside, hosts wine club events and will even be the magical setting of a New Year’s Eve wedding.

This labor of love seems the appropriate place to house an urban winery which, at its core, seeks to help wine drinkers re-envision winemaking on a vineyard in the countryside and give it a completely different backdrop.

Elizabeth Chambers Cellar is an urban winery in McMinnville sourcing pinot noir from several vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley. Viki Eierdam

Lest anyone think Elizabeth Chambers Cellar is surrounded by smoke and mirrors, let me assure you that the effort put into the buildings’ transformation is dwarfed only by the attention given to their small batch pinots; whether noir or gris. In fact, the 2012 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir recently received 94 points from Wine Spectator and their 2012 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (my favorite) garnered 94 points and Editor’s Choice from Wine Enthusiast.

My recent visit to the tasting room included a comfortable conversation with wine club manager, Kacie Copeland, who shared spot on tasting notes for six pinot noirs which included a vertical flight of their 2011, 2012 and 2013 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir. Verticals are a fantastic way to compare the sometimes subtle, sometimes obvious differences from vintage to vintage as well as how an elegant and finicky grape like pinot noir can evolve so beautifully in the bottle.

Enjoy the award-winning pinot noirs of Elizabeth Chambers Cellar in a beautifully-restored diesel power plant. Viki Eierdam

Located one block off the main drag of downtown McMinnville at 455 NE Irvine Street, Elizabeth Chambers Cellar is a nice change of pace with a history lesson to boot.

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